One day I read about how some Southern cook did her beans, and had to try it. I was so happy I did. This method produces meltingly tender beans that are sweet and have a full bean flavor, but the beans hold their shape. Just remember, patience is a virtue! Don’t keep checking the pot, stirring it, or otherwise messing with it. And you can’t hurry it. But it really is worth the wait.

INGREDIENTS:

1 pound Romano beans, stem end removed
2 tablespoons soffrito, (see recipe)
-OR-
¼ of a brown onion minced fine
1 large garlic clove, peeled and minced
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/3 C water or white wine
Salt and pepper to taste
-Optional- ½ tablespoon  bacon fat, or 2 teaspoons Pimenton de la Vera Dulce (Spanish sweet smoked paprika)
 

METHOD:

In a pot just large enough to hold the beans that has a tight fitting lid, warm the oil over medium heat.

When the oil is shimmering, add the soffrito and heat through. (If using just the onions, add the onions and suate slowly until soft.)

Add the garlic and gently cook until softened and aromatic.

If using, add the bacon fat now. (Pork and beans have a history, for good reason. They go so well together. For the vegetarian version that will maintain this flavor, add the smoked paprika now and cook for 2 minutes, stirring, to wake the flavors and infuse the oil.)

Add the beans, be sure to  toss to spread the aromatics around.

Add the liquid and put the top on the pot.

As soon as the liquid starts to steam, lower the heat as low as it will go. Cook like this for 1 hour, occasionally rattling the pot to stir it around.

Check after a ½ hour to ensure there is still liquid in the pan. If it seems very low, turn the heat down or use something to lower the heat, and add more liquid.

Cook until the beans are meltingly soft, but still holding their shape., around 1 hour total.

Season with a little salt and pepper and serve.

 

Chef’s notes and Tips:

Although this seems to fly in the face of convention, it works. You have to trust. I like to use bacon for flavoring beans, and I’ll cut 2 pieces into batons and cook it up, removing the bits of bacon and reserving them for adding at the end. I can skip the bacon and use Pimenton, or sometimes I finish with chopped smoked almonds. A drizzle of Meyer lemon juice at the end is a nice touch which adds brightness to the dish.

 

Serves: 4

 

Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen

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