Earthy, a bit sweet, fragrant, and it can be a little spicy as well, this soup is great for cold weather. The color is quite cheerful as well. This soup can be made well in advance and reheats easily, so it is good for holiday parties where your attention may be needed elsewhere.
INGREDIENTS:
1½ pounds (1 large bunch) carrots, stemmed and cleaned and sliced 1/8th inch thick 3 leeks, trimmed of all green, sliced very thinly and washed well, and drained well 2 medium Granny Smith Apples, peeled and core cut away, chopped fine (around 1 cup chopped) 2 pieces fresh peeled ginger, each the size of a nickel, minced 2 tablespoons neutral flavored oil such as grapeseed, or as needed 1-2 tablespoons unsalted butter, or to taste (optional) ½ teaspoon sweet garam masala (curry powder), or a spicy Madras if you want some heat 1/8th teaspoon cinnamon powder (“Mexican canela” or true cinnamon preferred)* Salt and pepper to taste 6 cups vegetable stock or water, or more as needed Rice or cider vinegar as needed, if needed -Optional- A mess of Frizzled Leeks for garnish (See recipe) ½ cup Labne, plain yogurt, or sour cream for dolloping on the soup
METHOD:
Heat a 4 to 5 quart pot over medium heat. When hot, add the oil to the pan and heat. When the oil is hot, add the sliced leeks and toss to coat with the oil. Cook gently until the leeks are thoroughly softened without being browned. Remove to a bowl, draining them over the pot.
Be sure the pot is still filmed with oil. If not, add a little. When hot, add the carrots and cook until softened. Cook until the carrots are lightly caramelized in spots.
Make a well in the center of the carrots and add the apple. Stir to coat with oil and cook just to caramelize some of the apple in spots.
Make a well in the center of the pot. Add the butter, and when it has melted, add the spices and the ginger. Stir to prevent scorching. When the spices are aromatic, add the leeks back into the pot and stir everything. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Add the liquid to the pot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until everything is tender, around 10-15 minutes.
Using a wand mixer or blender, puree the soup until smooth. Taste for balance. Adjust salt and pepper as needed. If the soup seems very sweet or tastes flat, try whisking in a very small splash of vinegar into the soup. This will help focus and balance the flavors.
Serve hot garnish with a little labne and a scattering or pile of frizzled leeks.
Chef’s Notes:
*For this dish the true cinnamon is better as it is more delicate and floral tasting, and will harmonize with the garam masala better. The usual “cinnamon” is cassia, and is a little sharper in flavor, tasting more like Red Hots than the true cinnamon. If you are not sure where to get true cinnamon, you can find it in markets on the Mexican/Latin Foods aisles in grocery stores in small hanging plastic packets. It is labeled “canela” usually.
When blending hot ingredients, be very careful. Only fill the blender part way, start on the slowest speed, and cover the top with a towel. I have seen chefs turn the blender on high first thing and they have burned themselves and gotten soup all over the kitchen as it came spurting out under the blender top as it expands from the heat.
If you want to get fancy, thin the labne or yogurt so it will squeeze and put in a squeeze bottle. Squeeze concentric circles in the soup, and then use a toothpick going from center out (or vice-versa) to form traces in the soup, giving the garnish a snowflake pattern. Add a small pile of frizzled leeks and you have a dish that looks quite fancy.
To make more soup for a party, increase the recipe straight up, but do not increase the spices without tasting. Start by adding small amounts more of spices a bit at a time. Spices tend to take the taste buds by surprise when being increased without tasting as you go.
Serves: 4-8 depending on portion size.
Source: Chef Andrew E Cohen
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